Say cheese: how to select the best varieties for melting

What are the best cheeses for melting, and how do I know how they will behave under heat?

We probably first need to define what we mean by melting, says Rob Lightbody from Neal’s Yard Dairy. “Most cheese will melt, but when a cheesemonger talks about ‘a good melter’, they’re probably talking about that satisfying stretch and pull you get from a good toastie, or from raclette melted over potatoes.” But Andrew’s right: because different cheeses do different things under heat, and that comes down to a few factors.

First, says Jazz Reeves, quality manager at cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield, there’s the moisture and fat content. “When cheese is heated, the protein structure breaks down and it releases the fat and water, so cheese with higher fat and moisture tends to melt well.” Acidity also comes into play: “Cheese with high acidity [eg feta] won’t melt, but low-acidity cheeses [parmesan, say] won’t melt, either, so look for something in the middle.” That’s to say, a pH level between 5 and 5.4, says Oli Smith, co-owner of The Bristol Cheesemonger. Mozzarella, he adds, “melts beautifully and produces those extraordinary stretches because it’s at that pH sweet spot of about 5.2”. Then there’s the age of the cheese to consider. “Younger ones are held together by a sort of protein matrix,” Smith explains, but that breaks down with time, which is why you can get those oil pools when extramature cheddar goes under the grill.

Steve Cooper, founder of Pistachio & Pickle in London, says his top tip “would be to grate the cheese before adding it to a dish”, because that ensures a speedy, even melt. But don’t rush things. “If you let cheese come to room temperature and take a slow and steady approach to melting,” Smith adds, “it’s less likely to split.”

But what does this all mean in practice? A good place to start, Lightbody suggests, are “those slightly forgotten territorial or place-name cheeses from around the UK”. A cheshire or lancashire, for example, will work well, “plus you get layers of flavour that will add depth to a dish”. Essentially, Smith adds, if your cheese has “that pliant texture, there’s a good chance it will hold its basic structure and give an even melt”.

Alpine cheeses (comte, gruyere, schnebelhorn) melt “really, really well” on burgers and toast, Reeves says, plus they’re a dream in fondues and cheese sauces.

If you’re still in any doubt, talk to your cheesemonger – because, as Reeves says: “They’ve all done many melted cheese experiments!” ANNA BERRILL IS A FOOD WRITER

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