Pasta with leeks, mushrooms, thyme me and soft cheese

This pasta dish is a reminder of the value of pasta cooking-water, well seasoned with salt and cloudy with starch that has seeped from the pasta as it boils. Here, it’s used to loosen the cheese mixture and for the final mixing. Just a little (I find a small coffee or espresso cup-full is a good measure – and vehicle – to carry the cooking-water from pasta pan to mixing pan) helps ease the consistency of the final dish. You may want a bit more grated parmesan on top, a glass of wine, a second helping, a second glass of wine, some bread for wiping the dish, a green salad, more cheese – and then cake.

Method

Bring a pan of water to a boil for the pasta. Put the oil, butter and leek in a deep saute pan, and cook on a medium-low heat until the leek starts to wilt. Add the mushrooms, a pinch of salt and the thyme and cook, stirring, for a few minutes more.

Press a piece of greaseproof paper on top of the vegetables, turn down the heat and leave to braise/ steam for 10-15 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and collapsed. Once done, put to one side and keep warm.

Salt the boiling water, stir, then add the pasta and cook until al dente. If you are adding cheese, in a small bowl mix the soft cheese and parmesan, scoop out a little of the cooking-water while the pasta cooks, and mix to a thick cream. Stir this through the vegetables.

When the pasta is done, drain it, saving a little more of its water, or lift it directly into the vegetable pan, then toss, toss adding a little more pasta cooking-water to loosen the texture, if you think it needs it.