№ 203 Pumpkin and lentil dhansak

Ingredients 1 squash (about 1kg) 150ml vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing the pumpkin and for the ginger and garlic Salt 550g brown onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced (500g)

5 garlic cloves , peeled and finely chopped (15g) 1 thumb-sized piece

fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (15g) 2½ tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground fennel seeds

½ tsp ground turmeric

250g red lentils 1½ tsp garam masala Natural yoghurt, to serve

The excesses of December are a fading memory. Without the twinkle of fairy lights to assuage a northern hemisphere winter’s grimness, I turn to comfort foods, and few things nourish like a bowl of lentils inspired by dhansak, one of my favourite Indian curry dishes that’s defined by its gentle spicing and a sauce thickened with red lentils. My favourite squash varieties are crown prince and kabocha, but you could use butternut instead.

Method

Heat the oven to 230C (210C fan)/ gas 8. Cut the squash in half, remove the seeds, then cut it into crescentshaped wedges 2½cm at their widest point. Brush with oil, season with a generous pinch of salt, then lay on a large baking sheet and roast for 25 minutes, until nicely browned.

Meanwhile, warm the oil in a large saute or frying pan on a low-medium heat, add the onions and fry, stirring regularly so they cook evenly, for 25-30 minutes, until the onions are a rich, caramelised brown. Using a slotted spoon, lift them out of the oil and leave to cool and crisp up on a plate lined with kitchen roll.

While the squash and onions are cooking, put a tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan and fry the garlic and ginger on a low heat for a couple of minutes, until they are aromatic and starting to brown. Add the cumin, coriander, fennel and turmeric, fry, stirring, for a minute, then add the lentils and 800ml of just-boiled water. Simmer for about 20 minutes, then stir in a half-teaspoon of salt and the garam masala.

Cut the slices of roast squash into 2½cm chunks, then stir into the lentil le pan and leave to simmer for another a five minutes. Serve in bowls with a little yoghurt stirred through, a sprinkling of the fried onions on top and perhaps with flatbread or rice r on the side.